How To Manually Install The Blue Series III

First of all, I would just like to take a moment to congratulate you for making such an incredible investment. By purchasing the Blue Series III air conditioning system, you have taken the first step toward achieving a more comfortable home. 

Indeed, this air conditioner is truly state-of-the-art. It has the ability to both heat and cool your home. On top of that, it works in all types of temperatures – even low, ambient temperatures. With advanced inverter technology, it is more energy-efficient than most traditional air conditioning units. In other words: not only is it going to be easier to deal with than other units, it will also end up lowering your electric bill. 

Additionally, it has a built-in dehumidifying function, which helps you control the rate at which air circulates in your home. As if that was not enough, every Blue Series III is also Energy Star certified.

But you probably know all of this. After all, you must have done plenty of research if you ended up going with the Blue Series III, the best AC unit on the market. Therefore, I shall spare you any further details and dive right into the set-up process.

Be sure to follow along closely at home – if you do, then by the end of this, you should have a properly installed Blue Series III air conditioner!

*SAFETY FIRST*

Before getting started, it is imperative that you take all of the necessary precautions to ensure your safety during the setup process. For instance, when moving the air conditioner, do not allow any air to enter the refrigeration system (luckily, the system comes equipped with an air-break switch). 

Make sure to unplug all electronics before setting up, as the competing remote power supplies may lead to an electric shock, which can be fatal. Also, keep any children under the age of eight away from the system, and don’t set it up in the laundry room.

Alright, now that we’ve gotten that out of the way–let’s really get into it.

1. Identify All Of The Parts

Each Blue Series III consists of an indoor unit and an outdoor unit. 

In addition, you will also have a remote controller, an air filter, some horizontal louvers, a front panel, a drain hose, some pipes, and a power connection cord. 

Then, of course, there is also the installation kit, which includes four meters (about thirteen feet) of insulated copper tuning, four and a half meters (about fifteen feet) of signal, and about a meter and a half (roughly five feet) of power cables. 

You’ll also receive PVC tape, a drainage hose, and a wall sleeve. 

2. Check All Of The Display Indicators

Included in every Blue Series III is a series of display indicators, each serving a different purpose. There is the temperature indicator, which displays the set temperature. Then there’s the running indicator, which lights up when the air conditioner is running. You can see the running indicator below.

It flashes when it’s defrosting. The timer indicator is another useful one, also displayed below;  it lights up during a set time. There is also the sleep indicator (which lights up during sleep mode), the compressor indicator (which lights up when the compressor is on), and the super indicator (which lights up when the unit is in super mode).

Speaking of modes, there is also a mode indicator that turns orange when the unit is heating; otherwise, it will typically be white. Finally, there is the fan speed indicator, which displays the speed of the fan. 

All very straightforward – you should have no trouble setting these according to your own particular preferences. 

Below, you can see what displays look like in great detail.

3. Take Care Of It

The Blue Series III is an incredibly sturdy system; that being said, accidents do happen. This is why the parts come with a five-year warranty, and the compressor comes with a seven-year warranty. However, you likely will not have to worry about any of this if you properly maintain your unit.

First and foremost, remember to clean the air filters after using it for about two hundred hours. To do this, you must first stop the appliance from running by opening the front panel and gently pressing the filter handle from the front. Furthermore, the front panel must also be cleaned regularly – with a soft and dry cloth, that is. 

Make sure never to sprinkle water into the indoor unit, and NEVER use gasoline or other potentially hazardous substances when cleaning it.

That’s pretty much it. Below, you can find a fun illustration that shows you just how it should be done. Read and learn!

4. Help! My System is Not Working!

There is nothing more irritating than sitting down to relax after a day sweating under the hot sun–only to realize that your trusty AC just won’t kick on. But before getting too upset and frantically calling the repair guy, try these troubleshooting techniques. We even have them outlined for you below!

Now that you’ve seen just how simple this unit is to set up, you might be tempted to recommend it to all of your friends and family. Thankfully, Payless Mini Split still has plenty for sale. Furthermore, if you like the Blue Series III, just wait until you take a look at their ductless mini splits. These people are truly at the forefront of the temperature regulation revolution.

Enjoy!

Still feel lost? Below are some illustrations that break down the installation process step-by-step!

Site Instructions

for the indoor unit:

Site Instructions

for the outdoor unit:

Now, if your pipe is bigger than what we’ve got up here on the table, then you will need to speak with the person you bought your unit from. They’ll be able to tell you more things than a table with two columns. 

NOW FOR THE REAL MEAT AND TATERS OF THIS INSTALLATION…lettuce begin with the indoor unit:

1. Go Tell It On The Mounting Plate

-first, make sure that you’re putting this here mounting plate in a place that would make sense for it to be, based on the directions provided above; you should probably install some screw anchors if you have a wall made of sheet rocks, concrete blocks, bricks, or something of that nature

-keep it horizontal (as opposed to vertical)

-leave a big ol’ splotch in the center of this bad boy for future reference; keep in mind that the center of the mounting plate may not be the center of the unit itself (you might need to have your thinking cap on for this one)

-tap it to the wall (not the album this time) with at least five screws, with enough space to prop up the weight of the unit

Take a look at the image below for reference, and keep in mind that the shape of your plate may be different from what you see in this picture, but the method remains the same (as does the song)

2. Drill, Baby, Drill!

–Figure out where you want to put that hole (based on where you mounted that plate)

–Go ahead and drill, making sure the hole tilts slightly downward, facing the outside

-stick a sleeve (no, not the one on your sweater: see the image below) through the wall so it stays nice and tidy.

1. Pipe It Up!

-go ahead and slide all of the liquid and gas piping through that hole you just got done drilling, either from the outside or the inside, after you’ve connected the cables to the outdoor unit

-see if you’re going to need to saw the unloading piece off, based on the image below

-once you do that, stick that drain hose in; then,  you’re going to throw in the power cords. After all that is connected, go ahead and wrap the piping, drain hose, and cords all together with the thermal insulation materials.

Take those thermal insulation materials and wrap them around the piping joints like a nice warm blanket, and then wrap all of that with vinyl tape like an even warmer blanket.

Put the drain hose under the piping. You’re going to have to prepare the drain hose yourself.

See here:

Don’t set it up in a way that mangles it all up or leaves it waving around like one of those inflatable dancing things at the gas station. Definitely don’t submerge the tip in water.

If the drain hose is connected to the pipe, make sure to keep it nice and insulated when passing it through the indoor unit (so it doesn’t start shivering)

Hatch all of this to the back of the unit with a piping fixer, as shown below:

AND NOW, FOR THE OUTDOOR UNIT:

1. Ain’t It Great To Condensate?

-when in heating mode, the condensate is going to drain from the outdoor unit; you should install a drain port and a drain hose to guide the flow of the condensate water in order to keep from irking your neighbors, as well as to prevent any contribution to the destruction of our environment (at the very least, you can do your part even if nobody else is)

-How do you do this? It’s easy! Just attach the drain port and rubber washer to the chassis of the outdoor unit and connect it to the drain hose.

2. Ground Pad or Wall Hangers? You Decide!

-figure out where you’re going to stick your unit 

-abide by the installation guide provided to you by the manufacturer regarding the wall hangers or the rubber pad (whichever one you choose to use)

-triple check to make sure that the wall hangers (or the pad) will be able to securely prop up the weight of the outdoor unit

-triple check to make sure that the rubber pad (or the hangers) is level and satisfies all of the necessary dimensions

-fasten the unit with nuts and bolts, real tight, like a baby’s bum, on a flat and sturdy surface

If you decide to install the unit on the wall or the roof, be sure that it is really fixed on there nice and tight, so the wind or any other major vibrations don’t shake it off.

3. Pipe It Up! (Part 2)

• Get rid of the service valve cover (if there is one) so you can get to the service valves and refrigerant ports
• Very, very (VERY) carefully bend and manipulate the length of those refrigerant pipes so they meet the valves; use the right set of tools to avoid the kinks (LO-LO-LO-LO-LOLA!)
• Rub some oil on the flare connection of the refrigerant pipe 
• Line up the piping real nice and tighten up the flare nut with two (2) wrenches: a standard wrench and a torque 
• Very, very (VERY) carefully fasten those flare nuts so they’re at the right TORQUE level. 

Refer to the TORQUE table below for more information about TORQUE levels

Keep in mind that if you tighten it too much, you could really screw up the flare connections and you may even cause some leaks, which would be no bueno mi amigo

YOU’VE GOT THE POWER (and the wiring)

For the indoor unit…

Connect the power cord to the indoor unit by taking one of the wires and sticking it in one of the terminals on the master control board, one by one, making sure you don’t mess up the outdoor unit connection. You might have to take the cabinet off so you can connect to the indoor unit terminal

For the outdoor unit…

Get rid of the cable cross board (well don’t get rid of it, but put it to the side for a bit) and loosen up the screw (shouldn’t be too hard for you to do). Then connect the wires to the terminals on the master control board, one by one, by attaching the power cord to the board with a little thing I like to call a cable clamp

Take that cable cross board I told you to set aside and screw it back into its original position

Use a circuit breaker (one you’d be able to pick out of a police lineup) between the unit and the power source (if you’ve got the 24K model, that is). You’re also going to need to fit a disconnecting device in order to fully disconnect all of the supply lines.

See below:

A Word To The Wise:

Make sure you ALWAYS have an individual power circuit that has been specifically tailored to your particular air conditioner. Please refer to the circuit diagram that’s posted to the inside of the access door of your unit if you need to figure out what method to use for wiring.

Make sure all the thickness levels meet the specifications outlined in the details

Make sure the wires are all nice and tight after connecting the cables

Make sure you install an earth leakage circuit breaker wherever you see moisture or wetness (and don’t forget to bring a towel!)

Are the colors of the wires in your outdoor unit different than the ones in your indoor unit?

Well, then you might have a problem.

See here:

VACUUM (VROOM VROOM VROOM)

• It’s possible that the moist air lingering from the refrigeration cycle could cause your compressor to go kaput. This is why you should use a vacuum pump* to release all of the excess air and moisture, as shown below

*don’t discharge the refrigerant to the air directly, or you’re going to make the air very sick, and we don’t want that!

HOW TO VACUUM THE AIR TUBES:

1. Unscrew and remove all of the caps from the two-way valves and the three-way valves
2. Unscrew and remove that one cap from the service valve
3. Take that mighty flexible hose from the vacuum pump and stick it on the service valve
4. Flip that bad boy on for about ten to fifteen minutes, or until the vacuum gets to 10 mm Hg absolutes (you’ll know, man)
5. While the pump is still going, close the low pressure knob on the vacuum pump. Then, shut the pump off (gently, though)
6. Open up the two-way valve, do a quarter turn, then shut it after about ten seconds. Use some liquid soap, or something called an electronic leak detector (they’re real helpful when it comes to this kinda stuff) to make sure all your joints are nice and tight (nobody wants a loose joint; it’ll fall apart and then you’ll have to re-roll..I mean…re-install it)
7. Crank those valves up until you can close them fully. Disconnect the vacuum pump hose. 
8. Get those valve caps back on nice and tight, like they were before (even tighter if you can, just to be safe)

Start Me Up!

Test it out first, though…

1. Turn on the electric disconnect for the outdoor unit
2. Toggle with the “on” and “off” controls on the remote to see if they are both working correctly
3. Push the button that says “mode” and try out all the various modes (“cooling,” “heating,” “fan”) to see that they, too, are all working correctly.

Check the technique (and the system)

1. Hide the refrigerant pipes (so nobody can see them)
2. Make sure that drain hose we were talking about earlier is sloping downward (like a negative demand curve, for all you nerds out there)
3. Make sure that the refrigerant pipes and connections are all insulated to the utmost degree
4. Wherever possible, fix the pipes firmly to the outside wall
5. Weatherproof and seal the wall hole where all the interconnecting wires and refrigerant pipes are passing through

INDOOR UNIT CHECKLIST:

1. Do all the buttons on the remote work?
2. Does the display panel show all the right lights?
3. Does the swing louver work?
4. Does the drain do its job?

OUTDOOR UNIT CHECKLIST:

1. Set the mode to COOL and adjust the setting to about sixty-one degrees Fahrenheit (sixteen degrees celsius); wait up to at least three (3) minutes. Does the compressor fan turn on?
2. Set the mode to HEAT and adjust the setting to about eighty-five degrees Fahrenheit (thirty degrees celsius); wait up to at least three (3) minutes: does the compressor fan turn on?

Alrighty then, looks like you’re all good, buddy!

🙂